Corton

The history here is well known but bears retelling. Vines on the great hill that kicks off the southern drive through the Côte de Beaune go back to Roman times, as they do in many parts of France. It is accepted that the wines of Corton were a favorite of the well-known oenophile, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne. The story goes that sometime in the middle of the eighth century, gazing high on the hill, Charlemagne noticed the snows melting in one location before the rest. He commanded that some vines be planted there, it was good and lo! - Corton-Charlemagne. Later in life, the story continues, Charlie’s wife, tired of his red-wine-stained beard, hinted that maybe he should drink more white wine. White grapes were then planted in his favorite spot and, Corton-Charlemagne may have become the world’s first cult Chardonnay.

It’s strange to say that Corton, Burgundy’s largest Grand Cru and one of its most historic, is a place in transition, given that most places of such stature are tended as carefully as bonsai trees. “It has not been defined correctly,” says Etienne de Montille, as he drives up on the narrow and often vertiginous roads near the top of the Corton hill. “Too many Grand Crus, too widely granted. It started to mean very little.” But Etienne sees hope. “I think that now there’s some new domaines coming up here looking for opportunity,” he said, “as there’s so much pressure on the Grand Cru in the Côte de Nuits. So I think this is a new day for Corton.”

Indeed, the new day has been dawning slowly but consistently for a while. Etienne bought his vines in 2005. In 2009, DRC made a surprising move to lease vines on the hill. And in 2017, Bonneau du Martray, one of the biggest producers of Corton, was sold to American billionnaire Stan Kroenke (who also owns Screaming Eagle). The influx of new money, new expertise, and new attention may be enough to snap Corton out of its long-lasting lethargy.

Or perhaps not. Corton’s fall, as Etienne de Montille notes, was not simply due to indifferent producers. Far too much underserving land was classified Grand Cru. The result is a lot of boring, tannic, and hard red wines and rich, flabby white wines at exobitant prices. The new wines from de Montille and DRC are excellent, but perhaps not enough to change the reputation of the site.

For the whites, Corton-Charlemagne, the mostly Chardonnay appellation, covers over 50 hectares with the principal sites called en Charlemagne and le Charlemagne. The former faces west to northwest, ripens late, and makes a racy, mineral wine. The latter’s brilliant west-southwest exposure creates a riper, more opulent showing. Chardonnay on pure south exposures can become plump, cloying, and tropical from over ripeness. Grand Cru Corton for red wine is a challenge to understand, but the named plots within it are what you need to remember. Les Bressandes hsa a strong mid-slope position, as does Les Perrieres, Les Pougets, Les Renards, Le Corton, and best of them all, Clos du Roi.

tasting notes

Corton reds: the reds do best mid-slope, where there’s more clay. However, Corton is definitely a white wine terroir. Reds here are not lush and juicy, but bony and structured. They have power and concentration, but are angular and tannic.

Corton-Charlemagne: the producer is essential here, but when it’s great it’s mind-bending. Somehow it makes a very austere, mineral wine that yet has incredible presence and a regal bearing. It has the least amount of topsoil of any Grand Cru and is thus always stern with a chewy, resinous quality, like a white wine with tannin. Except in really warm vintages, you don’t find soft, lush Corton-Charlemagne, because it faces mostly west and northwest. It’s an unusual Grand Cru, as most others face south and east.

top producers

BONneau du martray

Based in nearby Pernard-Vergelesses, this domaine is best known as Corton-Charlemagne specialist, making wines that capture the site’s minerality and lean, stoic grace. These wines need time, usually ten years, before they start really opening up.

Coche-dury

The culty Meursault producer’s cultiest, most expensive wine, Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne combines that lean and intense minerality with a ripeness and opulence unusual for the vineyard. This may be due to the famously perfectionist viticulture, allowing a higher level of ripeness.

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY

PYCM makes an excellent Corton-Charlemagne. It is intense in every way, including concentration and oak, and many years are needed before approaching.